Early Summer History Girl Trip ③ Inuyama Edition Part 3

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We descended from the castle keep and, although it wasn't even 12 o'clock yet, we decided to go into a shop right in front of us for lunch.

It was so hot that we were drawn inside as if by a vacuum, so we jumped in without even checking the name, but checking now, it was "Kotobuki-ya".

I just wanted to eat some "chilled kishimen" to cool my body down.

No, no.
I'm not trying to write a food review for this shop; I want to tell you about a shocking scene I encountered here.

There was a large table right to the right of the entrance, so when I asked the young female staff member by the register, "Is this seat okay?" she

threw a thick menu onto the table with a thud.

Just like a frisbee😱

The menu landed on the table while spinning horizontally.

The distance was only about two meters, so walking over wouldn't have taken any more time or effort, so why??

Her attitude made me immediately wonder if she was angry; even a gal in Osaka wouldn't act like that.

It goes without saying that it put me in a very bad mood.

Setting aside the fact that we are customers or the issue of employee training, can't she just place the menu down normally?

喧嘩売ってるのなら買うよ。

Of course, I don't think everyone in Inuyama is like that.

However, having such service at a prime location right in front of a national treasure castle makes the memories of the Inuyama Castle experience fade.

Although I was surprised by this truly unfortunate incident, the other staff members provided perfectly normal service, the food that came out was delicious, and above all,she herself didn't seem angry at all.

If she had some kind of complaint, I could at least understand it, butif that is her normal attitude, it is a major problem.
It completely invites misunderstanding, and there must be customers who would get angry.

Although I was taken aback at the very beginning, it turned out to be a good break time.

The layout of Inuyama Castle

When I looked into the former boundaries of Inuyama Castle, I found that both Haritsuna Shrine and Sanko Inari Shrine were well within the castle grounds. The Third Bailey (Sannomaru) extended south from near the foot of the hill, and 140 meters from there was the entrance, theOtemon Gate, which was part of a 'Sogamae' (outer defensive perimeter) that surrounded the entire castle town.

The site where the Otemon Gate once stood has been developed into a 'Rest Plaza'.
(It is located right across from the 'Inuyama Honmaru Square' area.)

That means 'Kotobuki-ya,' where that rude clerk was, was definitely inside the castle grounds!
I wish they were more aware of that 💧

It is truly a great shame to think about what could have been if the entire castle and town had not suffered the fate of being abandoned.

As I have said many times in my books and on note, I believe there is no policy more shameful than that, and it makes my anger well up again.

Castle and Town Museum

The 'Castle and Town Museum' and the 'Karakuri Museum' were adjacent to each other on the same premises as the 'Inuyama City Cultural Archives'.

A 3D diorama of the castle town is a staple, isn't it?
This depicts the 'Inuyama Festival' in the 11th year of the Tenpo era (1840), and it meticulously recreates the Third Bailey, which now leaves no trace.

Hmm.
The space is a bit cramped overall, but I feel it lacks a certain level of fulfillment.

A sudden off-line meeting while strolling

When I tried to go into the 'Karakuri Museum' next door, there was a sign at the entrance saying the next demonstration would be at 2:00 PM, which was still nearly 30 minutes away.

Thinking I would wander around the area and come back later, I was walking around eating and drinking when my smartphone suddenly rang.

At that moment, I had a hunch, and I think my mouth curled into a smile before I knew it.

'Excuse me, are you Chiyo-san? Are you in front of theGohei Mochi shop right now?'

I checked right in front of me, and the moment I thought, 'That's definitely the Gohei Mochi shop,' someone entered my field of vision!!!

Iku Mitarai-san!

PrologueAs I mentioned in the , my joy was all the greater because I had half-given up on it.

It was a short time, but we were able to have a decent conversation, and above all, seeing Mitarai-sanactively talking with the other membersmade her seem just like a member of the History Girl Circle.

It was clear that she was a bright, friendly, and thoughtful person, and she had a charm that made me want to meet her again if the opportunity arose.

On the same day, Mitarai-san also wrote an article about the excitement of that time.

Actually, 10 years ago, I had an offline meeting with two people I met on a different blog site, and we even went on an overnight trip to Matsushiro and Matsumoto in Nagano Prefecture.

Even now, I still have a small amount of interaction with them through comments.

While there are many people I connect with on social media, the number of people I can actually meet offline is very small, and the probability is quite low.

I want to cherish that rare connection.

Karakuri Museum

Before I knew it, it was 1:55 PM, the perfect time, and I returned to the Karakuri Museum.

The demonstration started soon after, and as usual, I sat right in the middle and filmed from the best seat. I have condensed the long, rambling video into just 49 seconds, so please take a look.

In Inuyama, it seems the character for 'float' (車山) is read as 'yama'. Depending on the region, it is read as 'dashi', and in Osaka, it is written in hiragana as 'danjiri'.

Thirteen 'yama' floats gather from various places for the Inuyama Festival, and it is said that they carry karakuri puppets, perform elaborate acts on each float, and dedicate them to Haritsuna Shrine.

It is also the cherry blossom season, so the collaboration with the full-bloom cherry blossoms must be magnificent, and at night, with 365 lanterns lined up, it must be a truly spectacular sight.

When I tried operating the puppets, they were quite heavy and required strength; I can imagine that it is hard labor for 5 or 6 adult men to crowd under the 'yama' float and operate them.

Donden-kan

The inside of the building was narrower and dimmer than I expected, and only three 'yama' floats, which were tall enough to look up at, were on display.

Sitting in an air-conditioned room on the second floor watching videos of the Inuyama Festival, I feel so comfortable that I end up dozing off.

Actually, I've had enough of going out to see big festivals in person💦
I think it's best to watch them comfortably in an air-conditioned space.

Of course, I have been to the Tenjin Festival in Osaka and the Gion Festival in Kyoto, but rather than actually watching the performance, it would be more accurate to say I was "watching the people." Not only could I not watch calmly and carefully, but if I were unlucky, I wouldn't be able to see anything at all because of people's heads.

Even so, when my children were small, I used to take them to the festival at the nearby Nunose Shrine but it has been a long time since I stopped going.

I am very interested in local culture, but I am not good with crowds, and I have absolutely no desire to experience big festivals anymore.

|Urakuen|

I am already exhausted, but thinking I would have tea here, I visited "|Urakuen|" located on the grounds of Hotel Indigo.

It was 4:15 PM at this point.
Since the closing time was 5:00 PM, I thought it would be a breeze, but the receptionist looked a bit hesitant and contacted the tea room.

What? Do they only prepare tea for such last-minute arrivals?
I was very anxious, but I was relieved when they gave the OK.

Nobunaga's younger brother, |Urakusai|

Urakusai is the name he used as a tea master; his real name was Oda Nagamasu, and he was Nobunaga's younger brother, the 11th son if you count from his father Nobuhide.

Nobunaga's mother was the legal wife, Dodagozen, but his mother was one of the concubines.

When you think of Urakusai, doesn't the image of a "social climber" come to mind first?
After his brother met a dramatic end, he navigated the rapidly changing world very skillfully and lived to the age of 75, likely because he possessed the keen insight to judge people well.

In the final stages of his life, he mastered the tea ceremony, which continued as the Uraku school of tea ceremony.
His principles were as follows:

Wait?? This might be similar to his brother Nobunaga...

Although their underlying personalities were very different, Nobunaga also seems to have poured his efforts into entertaining people, so perhaps both brothers possessed outstanding cultural talents.

Here, tea rooms and gardens associated with Urakusai have been gathered together.

Koan

Since we were pressed for time, we were directed to "Koan" first and headed there in a great hurry.

It is a very tasteful and pleasant tea room, but photography is prohibited inside the room.
We were told that we could only photograph our hands and the scenery outside. After obtaining permission, I only took photos where allowed.

Six of us used three types of tea bowls, and they kindly explained each one to us.
I have brilliantly forgotten the details, but each tea bowl was a replica of a masterpiece that Urakusai actually cherished, and even his "kaō" (stylized signature) was reproduced on the back.

National Treasure: Joan

Inuyama Castle itself is a national treasure, but this "Joan" is also designated as a national treasure.
It is wonderful to have two "national treasures" within the castle grounds.

Moreover, it is one of the three great national treasure tea rooms.

To think it was originally at Kennin-ji in Kyoto!

I did not know that things related to Urakusai were gathered in the Inuyama castle town.
When visiting this time, I wondered why they were here, but knowing that they were originally from Kennin-ji in Kyoto, it all makes sense.

I believe there was also a memorial tower for his older brother, Nobunaga, which he built in the garden at Kennin-ji.

Now, the name "Joan" is said to have been taken from Urakusai's Christian name, "Joan," and I will briefly list the features of this tea room.

・Gezadoko (low alcove): The alcove is located behind the host's seat.
・There is an earthen floor in front of the "nijiriguchi" (crawling-in entrance).
・Uraku windows: Five windows use bamboo lattices to create lighting effects.
・Main lighting is from a skylight.
・"Sujichigai no kakoi" (diagonal enclosure): A diagonal wall that makes the guest seating area look wider.
・The wallpaper is made of old calendars.

In particular, the way light is incorporated and the clever visual effects in the small space are full of rationality, and its novelty and eccentricity are unique, allowing us to see a sensibility shared with his brother Nobunaga.

Although Urakusai did not succeed as a warrior, it is deeply moving to see that, even though he followed a different path from his brother, both showed their own unique innovations.

◇◇◇

Normally, the flow would be to return to the inn, soak in the hot spring, and have a banquet, but today there is a special treat in store.

[Related Books]
Mentions Kennin-ji Temple and Urakusai.

[References]
・Website for enjoying Inuyama Castle
・Wikipedia

>>>To be continued