[Illustrated Summary] The Hair Dye Revolution Using Only Plants—A Textbook on Chemical-Free Hair Color

Introduction

Subject of this article

This article is based on "Natural Hair Coloring" (2016) by Christine Shahin.

It is a book that systematically summarizes how to dye hair using only plants, and it has received high praise from "Library Journal," a professional magazine that American libraries use as a reference for book selection. The author is a holistic beauty practitioner with an American cosmetology license who runs an eco-salon visited by clients from all over the United States. She is a professional in the field who has actually dyed the hair of thousands of people with plant-based colors.

The foreword is written by Rosemary Gladstar, known as the "Godmother of American Herbalism." She highly praises it as "the best natural hair color book I have ever read."

However, this book has not been translated into Japanese.

Reason for writing this article

The method of dyeing hair using only plants has already been systematized overseas to the point of becoming a book. But it cannot be read in Japanese.

I have over 30 years of experience as a hairdresser and run a private salon specializing in organic henna. I have dyed the hair of thousands of people. I am a practitioner who has continued to use both chemical colors and herb colors in the field.

That is precisely why, when I read this book, I thought, "I want to deliver this to people in Japan as well."

What approach did I take in writing this?

Instead of translating the original book as it is, I have passed it through several filters.

First, I cut out all information that cannot be used in Japan. Lists of American suppliers, information on herbs not available in Japan, and recipes for Western hair types. Since it would be meaningless to include them as they are, I have removed them all.

Next, I cut out parts that were too academic. Detailed tables of chemical compositions and lists of academic papers may be necessary for researchers, but they do not lead to practical application for the general public. I have removed information that, while factually correct, does not answer the question, "So, what should I do?"

Furthermore, I removed the chapters on minor herbs other than the four main herbs (Henna, Indigo, Amla, and Cassia). Although other herbs are introduced in the original book, I have omitted those that are difficult to obtain in Japan and are not used in actual salon work.

On top of that, I added my 30 years of hands-on experience as a hairdresser. I have included supplements such as "The book says this, but in the field, it's like this" and "This is what happens with Japanese hair types." Also, instead of the photo gallery in the original book, I have created my own illustrations.

In other words, I extracted only the parts from the book that are "in Japan," "for the general public," and "actually usable," added my field experience, and reorganized them into easy-to-understand illustrations. That is what this article is.

What this article covers and does not cover

There are five main themes covered.

1. Why Herb Color? (Differences from Chemical Color)

2. The Basics of 4 Botanical Herbs

3. How to Identify the Real Thing

4. Actual Dyeing Methods and How to Create Colors

5. Aftercare and Q&A

I am not going to say that "chemical color is evil and herb color is justice." Both have pros and cons. The purpose of this article is to help you make your own choices after being informed.

If you thought, "Get to the point already," you can just scroll through the illustrations from here on out ☺️

Chapter 1: Why Herb Color?

Have you ever looked at what's in store-bought hair color?
Actually, thousands of chemical substances are used.
Some ingredients have even been reported to be carcinogenic.
With botanical color, you can dye your hair without damaging it.
You can have both beauty and health 🌿

Do you know what PPD is?
It's a chemical substance called paraphenylenediamine,
and it's in many store-bought hair dyes.
There are reports of allergies and carcinogenicity.
I don't want to scare you,
I just want you to be able to make your own choices after knowing the facts 🌿

Did you know that hair is made of three layers?
The outer cuticle,
the middle cortex,
and the core medulla.
Chemical color opens the cuticle to get inside.
Henna gently coats the surface.
The mechanisms are completely different 🌿

Which is better, chemical color or herb color?
People ask me that, but the mechanisms are completely different to begin with.
"Getting inside" versus "coating the outside."
Once you know this difference, you can see which one suits you better 🌿

My conclusion after handling both for over 30 years as a hairdresser is,
it's not about "which is good or bad,"
but about choosing based on "what you prioritize."
I make suggestions tailored to each individual customer.

Many people panic when gray hair appears, thinking, "I have to hide it."
But gray hair is notagingbutchange.
Hiding it or embracing it are both correct.
The important thing is to choose for yourself.
With herbs, you can gently tone down gray hair ☺️

Whether to hide it completely or blend it in.
Choosing what makes you feel comfortable is the best way.

Chapter 2: The Basics of 4 Botanical Herbs

Did you know you can dye your hair using only plants?
Henna, indigo, amla, and cassia.
You can create red, brown, and black with combinations of these four.
And your hair gets healthier every time you dye it.
It's the exact opposite concept of chemical color, right 🌿

Henna—even if you've heard the name,
do you know what it's made of?
It's a powder made from the leaves of a plant that grows inRajasthan, India.
The pigment lawsone gently coats the hair to dye it.
Isn't it amazing that your hair gets healthier every time you dye it? 🌿

Henna alone makes it look orange to reddish, but
when you layerindigoon top, it adds a blue tint, bringing it closer to brown or black.
Using a method called two-step dyeing,
you can create a natural hair color.
It's like henna's partner 🌿

Have you heard of amla?
It's a herb that has been used in Ayurveda in India,
and it's incredibly rich in Vitamin C.
When mixed with henna, it boosts the conditioning effect and suppresses redness.
It's the unsung hero 🌿

Cassia is also called "neutral henna," and it is a herb that barely adds any color.
It is perfect for people who want a treatment but don't want to dye their hair.
Surprisingly, many people just want firmness, body, and shine.
It's amazing that you can make your hair healthy without adding color. ☺️

Chapter 3: How to Identify the Real Thing

Do you feel safe just because it says "henna-infused"?
Actually, "henna-infused" and "pure henna" are completely different.
The real thing only lists plant names as ingredients.
Since some products contain additives,
it is important to get into the habit of checking the ingredient list properly.
Let's choose the real thing. 🌿

"Choosing the real thing" is a core philosophy at our salon.
We don't get involved with shady products. This is the same when choosing henna.

Chapter 4: Actual Dyeing Methods and How to Create Colors

Herb coloring might look difficult, but it is actually very simple.
Mix the powder, apply it, wrap it, wait, and rinse.
That's all there is to it. You can also adjust the color intensity by the processing time.
It might be similar to baking. It's surprisingly fun once you try it. ☺️

Henna only turns red, right?
If you think that, wait a minute.
If you combine it with indigo or amla,
you can create anything from light brown to almost black.
Depending on the blend, the color palette is wider than you might imagine.
You can do all this with just four plants. 🎨

Did you know that henna color changes depending on the processing time?
30 minutes gives a light orange,
while leaving it for over 2 hours results in a deep reddish-brown.
The intensity of indigo also changes with time.
Your preferred color can be created by "blend x time."It's like an experiment and it's fun. 🎨

You might tend to think that because henna is a plant, it is safe...
but even plants can cause allergies.
That is whyyou must always do a patch test first.Just apply a small amount to the inside of your arm and wait 48 hours.
This extra step will protect your skin.
Natural doesn't always mean safe, you know. ☺️

Sometimes with herb coloring, it turns out "too red,"
"uneven," or "too light."
But that's not a failure; it's just an experiment in progress.
You can adjust it with the next blend or time.
The more you do it, the more you will understand your hair's unique characteristics.
There's no need to rush. ☺️

Chapter 5: Aftercare and Q&A

Do you shampoo right after herb coloring?
Actually, it is better to refrain from shampooing for 24 to 48 hours immediately after to let the color set.
Also, just by being conscious of using non-silicone shampoo and oil care,
the color longevity and hair health will change significantly. Aftercare is also important. 🌿

Hair quality varies from person to person,
so care doesn't have to be the same for everyone.
Fine hair, thick hair, wavy hair...
There are henna usage and care methods suited for each.
Once you know your hair type, you will be able to enjoy henna even more. ☺️

Are you just picking shampoo at random?
Take a look at the ingredient list on the back.
Sodium lauryl sulfate can sometimes be too harsh in its cleansing power.
It also affects the color longevity of herb coloring.
Rather than what to add, think about "what not to include."
If you choose with a subtractive mindset, your hair will change. 🌿

"Can I lighten my hair with henna?"
"Can it cover gray hair?" I've summarized the frequently asked questions.
Henna is not a cure-all.
But if you understand how it works,
you will be able to tell for yourself what is a "good fit or not."
Please feel free to ask me anything you're curious about. ☺️

Many people are anxious about switching from chemical color to herbs, right?
Actually, you don't have to switch everything all at once.
You can use them together, and I recommend transitioning little by little.
The color might be unstable at first, but it will settle down after 2 or 3 times.
There's no need to rush. ☺️

Bonus

Is the henna boom a recent thing?
Actually, people have been dyeing their hair with plants since ancient Egyptian times.
Chemical hair color only appeared a little over 100 years ago.
Plant-based coloring is not a trend, but a return to the origin.
The wisdom of thousands of years is being re-evaluated now. 🌿

Do you think henna is just for dyeing hair?
Actually, it is used for body art,
as a scalp pack,
and even in folk remedies applied to the soles of the feet to combat cold sensitivity.
It would be a waste to use it only for hair.
Henna is a plant that supports our daily lives.🌿✨

Do you spend your henna processing time wrapped in plastic wrap?
Actually, you can spend that time in style depending on how you wrap your scarf.
There are many ways, from simple turbans to crown wraps.
If you can turn the waiting time into a little bit of fun, you might come to love henna even more.☺️

The desire to be beautiful and the desire to take care of your body,
you don't have to give up on either. The world of plant-based color is gentle on your hair, scalp, heart,
and the Earth as well.
I hope the concept of "wellness beauty"
spreads even further.🌿✨

Information about this book

Item Details Original Title Natural Hair Coloring Author Christine Shahin Publication Year 2016 Rating Highly rated by the American library journal "Library Journal" Language English (not yet translated into Japanese)

"I want to know what suits my hair."
"I want to switch away from chemicals."
At my private salon, I offer suggestions tailored to each individual.
Online consultations are also available.

🌿 For reservations and inquiries, please check the link in my profile.

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