That Journey - Komodo Dragons of Rinca Island -

The biggest highlight in Indonesia east of Bali is the Komodo dragon. It is said that survivors of ancient dinosaurs inhabit Komodo Island. While dinosaurs were mostly wiped out by various environmental conditions, it is said that they survived to this day on Komodo Island because the surrounding ocean currents made it difficult for natural enemies to approach, allowing the environment to remain as it was in the past.

A person named Mitsuo whom I met during my travels had visited once, so I asked him about it. People staying there would pool their money together to buy a goat for bait. He said that when you throw it into their den, you can see the Komodo dragons come shuffling out, biting into it with their jaws, and eating each other. It is a cruel but powerful tour.

I woke up in the morning and took a bus from Sumbawa Besar to Sape, at the eastern end of Sumbawa Island. 10,000 Rp. For now, I stayed one night at Losmen Muhara. 20,000 Rp. Now, Komodo Island is right next to this Sumbawa Island.

However, when I asked about access to Komodo Island around Sape, I was told that there are no longer any public ferries to Komodo Island. A young man approached me and tried to overcharge me, asking, "If you really want to go, how about 1 million Rp (approx. 14,000 yen)?" It was way too expensive. He lowered it to 600,000 Rp, but that was still impossible. He invited me to go to the beach, but I wasn't in the mood. Have I come all this way only to not see the dragons...

I wasn't hungry and returned to the inn. On the way, there were boys playing a game where they crashed tops into each other, like Japanese beigoma.

At 8:30 in the morning, I left Sape and took a boat for 25,000 Rp, passing by Komodo Island to Labuan Bajo at the western end of Flores Island. I stayed at the BAJO BEACH HOTEL in Labuan Bajo. 25,000 Rp.

The owner of the inn said there is a Komodo dragon tour. Although I couldn't go to Komodo Island, he said there are also Komodo dragons on Rinca Island, which is right next to it to the east. Since the island's name doesn't include "Komodo," I probably shouldn't expect too much, but it was 200,000 Rp (approx. 2,800 yen) round trip, including ferry and accommodation. However, entrance fees, guide fees, and food expenses were extra.

Since I had heard 1 million Rp the day before, this was a bargain. I probably won't come here again in my life, so if I can see them now, I want to. I said yes immediately.
Dinner was Nasi Goreng for 5,000 Rp + water from the supermarket + mosquito coils for 5,000 Rp.

The next morning, I took a ferry to Rinca Island. After getting off the ferry, I left my luggage at an inn that looked like a stilt house cottage. Komodo dragons are carnivorous, and it seems that accidents where humans are eaten every year occur. I was warned not to walk around at night because they wander near the inn as well. To prevent them from entering the building, the structure is built on stilts, leaving the ground floor hollow.

I immediately set out for trekking. I followed a local who seemed to be a guide, walking with a stick-like spear. A two-meter-long one was sitting there right away, but it didn't move at all, so it looked like a sculpture or an ornament. I wondered, "Is this real?" and as I approached, the guide stuck the spear into the ground right in front of me. Was that to tell me not to get close because it's dangerous?
At that moment, the dragon's legs moved forward instantly, threatening me. I was so startled I almost fell backward. So it was real.

After that, we walked for about an hour, but maybe because it was hot, they didn't come out much. I found about five in total, but they all looked sleepy. There wasn't a tour like the one Mitsuo mentioned where they use a goat as bait to lure them out, but at least I was able to see real Komodo dragons.

After that, I also saw beautiful coral for a boat fee of 2,000 Rp + snorkeling set for 10,000 Rp.

Overall, when I thought of dinosaurs, I imagined something huge like a Tyrannosaurus, but the Komodo dragons were smaller than that, giving the impression of just a slightly large lizard or crocodile.

Starbucks currently sells a coffee called Komodo Dragon Blend, and my only boast is that I have actually seen the dinosaur that became the motif for that picture.

(To be continued)