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Cheers in Gosen! A Sake-Filled Day with a Brewery Tour at Kondo Shuzo and Lunch at Bunpuku

One day in September, four sake-loving friends and I
took a little trip to Gosen City.

(Imagine the NHK "Chiisana Tabi" theme song playing in the background!)


Our destination was Kondo Shuzo,
a long-established brewery with over 150 years of history,
founded in the first year of the Keio era (1865).

A brewery that has remained dedicated to local spring water and sake rice,
starting with their signature brand, "Sugnadake."

Even today, they continue to brew sake in harmony with the nature of Gosen.

(Let's keep the "Chiisana Tabi" vibe going until about here)

Actually, Kondo Shuzo
doesn't usually advertise tours to the general public,
and there is no "tour application form" on their website.

However, thanks to a stroke of good fortune,
we were granted a special tour.

Yahoo!
(Oops, my true colors are showing)

We set off for Gosen, filled with excitement!

We took the Ban'etsu West Line from Niitsu Station to Gosen Station.

They even sell ekiben (station bento boxes) at Niitsu Station!

We arrived at Kondo Shuzo after about a 6-minute walk from Gosen Station!
Look for this sign.

A talk about sake rice (Koshitanrei is amazing)

We received a lecture from the chairman.

Sake rice is indispensable when talking about sake.

The main variety used by Kondo Shuzo is
the Niigata-born Koshitanrei.

Seeing it in person, you can tell it's long and thick.

[Kireido Memo: Characteristics of Koshitanrei]
・The grains are large, making it perfect for Daiginjo!
・It's difficult to cultivate!
→The stalks are tall and prone to falling over. It's also susceptible to disease.
・But the depth of flavor and clarity are top-class!

I see, so sake rice has its own "personality" too.

The grains are quite large.

Due to the recent rise in rice prices, Koshitanrei has also become expensive,
so they have to limit its use to Daiginjo and Ginjo sake.

For other types of sake, they use varieties like Gohyakumangoku,
and the staff even grow their own rice in their own fields.

The passion of the sake brewery is incredible!

The most impressive part of the brewery tour was the story about the "water".

The place name "Gosen" comes from the land where five springs gushed forth, just as the name suggests.
The land where five springs gushed forth.

It is still known for the beauty of its water,
and this water is the foundation for every process,
from washing the rice and steaming to making the yeast starter.

Delicious water makes delicious sake.

It was a moment where I felt that saying with my whole body.

Packaging for overseas markets

I was actually allowed to taste the well water, and...
it was mellow and went down so smoothly!

My excitement doubled as I thought, "So this is the water that creates that flavor."

Furthermore, Kondo Shuzo's dedication is thorough.

For their signature brand "Sugnadake",
they go out of their way to draw the underflow water of Mount Sugna
to use in the brewing process.

Moreover, every year on January 14th,
they hold an annual event called "Kanku no Mizukumi" (Drawing the Mid-Winter Water).

It was also featured in a newspaper article.

They draw the brewing water in the snow,
and it is said that the water at this time of year
is the "clearest of the year."

It is truly a scene unique to a sake brewery,
where tradition and respect for nature become one.

The atmosphere of the brewery feels wonderful.

On this day, it was before the brewing season,
so I couldn't see the fermenting mash,
but the atmosphere of the brewery is amazing.

I imagine that the bacteria cultivated over many years
are protecting this place...

Just imagining that makes my heart feel warm.

A historic brewery is sacred in its very existence.

I really believe that the "power of the place"
is what brews the sake.

Recently, "namazake" (unpasteurized sake) has become popular,
and it seems there are more products with a fresh aroma.

Ooh, I want to drink it...!

The famous sake "Koshino Karoku," which also appeared in the manga "Oishinbo"

Among the stories shared by the chairman,
this was the episode that made me lean in with excitement.

Believe it or not, Kondo Sake Brewery's "Koshino Karoku" was featured in
the monumental gourmet manga
"Oishinbo," volume 4!

What!? That Oishinbo!?

Image credit: Amazon

[Kireido Trivia]
And they weren't even notified beforehand.
They were surprised to see it appear in the magazine one day.

The scene was part of a discussion on "What kind of sake goes well with seafood?"

It appeared during a conversation about how "it's hard to find wine that pairs well with shellfish."

Yamaoka-san recommends it:
"Please try pairing this Koshino Karoku with escargot."

And then...

The heaviness of the garlic butter is washed away, leaving a clean finish after each bite!
Yet, the rich, wild flavor of the escargot stands out even more clearly!

From Oishinbo Volume 4

That is how it was introduced.

While "pairing" is widely known now,
suggesting it back in the Showa era was quite innovative.

It was truly a pioneer of the marriage between sake and cuisine.

Karoku, which etched its name into such a historic page...

I mean...
just hearing that makes me
want to drink it right now!

Time for the tasting!

So, for the long-awaited tasting.
Alright!

You can compare three types of sake for just 500 yen.

The retro tulip-shaped glass contains delicious Gosen water.

On this day, it was

・Junmai Ginjo Koshino Karoku
・Aki-aji Suisei
・Futsu-shu Suisei

I enjoyed it.

The 'Akiaji' in particular is a bottle that was pasteurized after being freshly brewed and then
aged at a low temperature until autumn.

It pairs perfectly with seasonal delicacies!

It was a great decision to buy some as a souvenir, too.

Sweet, crisp, with a lingering finish...
each one has its own personality,
making you want to reach for another glass.

I was very satisfied with the tasting as well.

Thank you, Kondo Shuzo.

The Gosen lunch was an explosion of volume!

After the brewery tour, we headed to the famous Gosen kappo restaurant Bunpuku.
The lunch served here was just too luxurious!

From sashimi, simmered dishes, and grilled items to small side dishes and dessert.
Everything was prepared with care, and the portions were incredible.

'I don't think I'll need dinner tonight...'
we laughed together,
our stomachs and hearts completely full.

Introduction page for Bunpuku in Gosen City ↓

Gosen is heaven for sake lovers.

At Kondo Shuzo, you can feel the story woven by water, rice, and people
firsthand.

And the Bunpuku lunch
further enhances that lingering experience.

Isn't that just the best?

A day in Gosen;
it was a wonderful short trip for a sake lover.

I'd love to participate in the 'Sake and Food Pairing Experience' on 10/17 too.

Basic Information

Kondo Shuzo
2-3-50 Yoshizawa, Gosen City, Niigata Prefecture
Business Hours: 8:00 - 17:00
TEL: 0250-43-3187
Website: https://kondo-shuzo.com/

*Please inquire directly regarding brewery tours.

[Niigata Brewery Tour Report] I went to Ichishima Shuzo in Shibata City, Niigata Prefecture: A Sake Beginner's Report
[Sake Brewery Tour Report] I went to Imayotsukasa Sake Brewery in Niigata City.

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