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Yunnan Cuisine: Guoqiao Mixian (Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles)

[JP] |Guoqiao| |Mixian|
[CN] |guòqiáo mǐxiàn|

Guoqiao Mixian (Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles)

A soup dish featuring rice noodles that originated in Jianshui, southern Yunnan, and was refined in Mengzi. Along with steam pot chicken, it is one of Yunnan's most iconic dishes. A layer of chicken fat floats on the piping hot soup in the bowl, keeping it from cooling down quickly. You eat it by adding raw meat, ham, and plenty of other ingredients, along with the rice noodles, into the soup to cook them with its heat. Each restaurant puts its own spin on the dish and offers a variety of ingredients, making it fun to compare different versions.

Yunnan locals do not typically eat Guoqiao Mixian on a daily basis; it is usually reserved for special occasions, before exams (see the origin story below), and similar events.

At some restaurants, there is a self-service system for adding ingredients, and a guide on the "correct way to eat Guoqiao Mixian" is provided with illustrations.

The piping hot soup, ingredients, and rice noodles are served separately. The ingredients include Yunnan specialties like Xuanwei ham, chicken, and fish. They are sliced thinly so they cook easily.
The "correct way to eat Guoqiao Mixian": First, beat the quail egg, dip the raw meat in it, and add the meat to the soup, waiting about 20 seconds. Next, add all the other meats and wait about 18 seconds; once the meat is cooked, add the vegetables. Finally, add the rice noodles, mix, and it's ready to eat.
The ingredients cook in the heat of the soup.

At some restaurants, the staff will add the ingredients for you.

Guoqiao Mixian at another restaurant. The soup is boiling, so safety measures are in place.
The staff added the ingredients for me.
At this restaurant, the quail egg is added last.
Ready to eat.
Mix and eat. The quail egg was cooked perfectly.

Recently, as the dish has become more upscale for tourists, some places offer three grades, similar to the 'pine, bamboo, and plum' ranking: Zhuangyuan, Bangyan, and Tanhua. Zhuangyuan refers to the top scorer in the imperial examination, while Bangyan and Tanhua are the second and third place scorers, respectively. These names are derived from the origin story below.

The Origin of Guoqiao Mixian

According to legend, during the Qing Dynasty in Mengzi, there was a scholar studying for the imperial examinations in a hut on a small island in Nanhu Lake on the outskirts of town. His wife would always cook meals at home and bring them to him, but the food would always get cold on the way, which was a constant source of worry.

One time, she put rice noodles into a soup rich with chicken fat and carried it across the bridge. It stayed hot, and the scholar was able to eat piping hot noodles. The scholar later passed the imperial examination.

However, according to the writer Yao Yun, who has authored numerous works on food culture, the first historical mention of Guoqiao Mixian is in the 'Jianshui County Annals.' It began during the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty (1875-1908) when Li Matian of Jianshui, then the center of southern Yunnan, served it at a noodle shop at Suolong Bridge. It started by putting piping hot soup into a highly heat-retentive bowl produced in Jianshui, and having the customer choose and add their own rice noodles and ingredients (the style devised by Li Matian still exists today as Jianshui Caoya Guoqiao Mixian, and there are many shops in Kunming that use this style, so please try it if you have the chance). Later, as the economic center of southern Yunnan shifted to Mengzi, Guoqiao Mixian was refined, and the legend mentioned above was created. Guoqiao Mixian then spread to Kunming. During the Second Sino-Japanese War, Kunming served as a rear base, attracting people from all over China. After the war ended, they spread the word about Guoqiao Mixian to their hometowns, making it famous nationwide.

Delivery experience

Since Crossing-the-Bridge noodles are perfect for delivery, I decided to order them on a busy day.

The app's order screen
The Crossing-the-Bridge noodles arrived. The soup was quite hot.
The ingredients were already in the soup. As I ate, checking the ingredients that had sunk to the bottom, I found they were almost identical to the photo on the app's order screen.
Put the rice noodles into the soup and eat.

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