[Knitting Log Extra Edition] I tried a non-standard DIY blocking board using 100-yen shop goods (0401 Knitting frame added)

This is a Knitting Log extra edition that takes about 5 minutes to read.

Please enjoy it with this 5-minute
cool, upbeat
bossa nova track ◝(('ω'*))◜

What is a blocking board?

A blocking board, a knitting tool,
is used to shape motif knits
like granny squares when finishing them.

Since flat works like motif knits
are thin pieces of fabric knitted with yarn,
due to the nature of hand knitting,
distortion like curling or rolling is unavoidable right after completion.

That is where the
"blocking (setting into a block shape)"
process comes in, where you pin the work to a board and let it rest for a day.

Through this process,
the knitted fabric is neatly shaped.

Non-standard Making

The Origin

The idea to make a blocking board
came to me the moment I happened to pass by a 100-yen shop,
so I forcibly
made my own board
using only the materials available at that 100-yen shop at the time.

I was so absorbed in thinking about how to make it with the materials I had on hand that I just kept going without
referencing anything until it was finished.
Therefore, I am well aware that it is highly likely

to be a bizarre, non-standard method
that is far from the stylish and smart designs you might see elsewhere (´ω｀;)……

Materials

・Pegboard x 2
　------------------　110 yen x 2 = 220 yen

・Cork trivet x 1
　------------------　110 yen

To keep prototype costs down,
I used a round cork trivet I had already bought at Daiso that had no other use,
but

I have decided that I want to find a square (rectangular)
cork trivet soon
and redo it (´ω｀;)……

・Wooden pins x 4
　------------------　110 yen x 4 = 440 yen
※You may purchase
　2 or more sets if necessary
　They are also excellent as pins

・Other tools
A hole-punching tool like an awl, a glue gun, and some leftover yarn

Total amount (excluding others): 770 yen

Steps

1. Layer the cork board on top of the pegboard,
　　and if necessary, fix it in several places with a glue gun, etc.

2. Aligning with the holes in the pegboard,
　　make holes in the cork board

3. Pass the pins through the holes

At this point,
the needles don't point straight up yet,
it's like a prickly hedgehog,
but it will be fixed when you layer another board on top.

4. Sandwiching the cork board,
　　place the other pegboard on top.
　　Make sure the needles pass through all the boards

The good point of the wooden pins used is that
you can pinch the base of the pin
to easily pull them out and reinsert them.

State of the underside↓

State of the top side↓

By sandwiching it between two pegboards,
it gained thickness, allowing the pins to stand straight.

5. Thread leftover yarn through the holes on the edge,
and sew them together all the way around to secure it.

There, it's finished!

Review after using it

Blocking

I'll knit one motif
to check its usability.

I did something stupid and
forgot to take a photo of the
before state prior to blocking.

I'm sorry, but
please try to imagine it.

It wasn't extreme or subtle,
it was just distorted in a very typical way.

Now, I'll pin it nicely to the board.

As a pre-treatment,
I sprayed it with water to dampen it,
and used the steam from an iron held just above the surface.

The second benefit of using pins.
Because the tips are thin, they pass through the holes of the motif
nicely by pushing them aside without pulling or
damaging the knitted fabric.

In the case of rod-shaped sticks like wooden dowels,
even at 5mm, the thickness is the same at both ends,
and depending on the size of the motif or the placement of the holes,
it can be quite a hassle to adjust when pinning,
and it feels like the thicker pins
successfully resolve that annoyance.

The knitting pattern is from this book.
3D Granny Squares are so cute ⸜( ' ᵕ ' )⸝

I will leave it pinned down like this for about a day.

Finished result

A day has passed.
Time to check the results.

I confirmed that the curled parts and uneven areas
have completely settled.

Hehe, it feels great.

Even when hung vertically, it doesn't go limp,
and I am happy with the finish
that maintains such a clean and pleasant shape.

In conclusion

How was it?

That was the DIY method for a
heretical-of-the-heretical
blocking board
that sandwiches cork trivets with a pegboard.

However, heresy may be shameful, but it is useful.
The usability is as I imagined and beyond my expectations,
and I am very satisfied.

As I briefly mentioned in the materials section,
I plan to get a square trivet soon
to improve the coverage,
and I intend to continue using my
my-heretical-blocking-board with love.

There is not much left of March, is there?
I took a break from the knitting log last month,
but I will resume it this month,

so thank you for your support (* ᴗ ᴗ)⁾⁾

0326 Update: I made an improved version

Improvement details

To improve the cork board coverage
of the previous prototype,

I made an improved version using a
28x20cm square trivet
that can perfectly cover all the holes
of the 29.7x21cm Seria MDF pegboard.

Since the size was perfect,
I used the following product
from Pearl Metal.

https://amzn.asia/d/6gc8dRx

Square trivets themselves, including those from 100-yen shops,
are sold in various places,
so I think you can purchase them
at an affordable price range,

but please do not forget to check the size
before purchasing
to see if the trivet's coverage
is sufficient for the pegboard you are using.

Size comparison image of the
pegboard and square trivet used this time ↓

Improved version review

I will complete it
by steadily repeating the same
heretical making procedure
as the other day.

As with last time, I used the outer holes
to close them with yarn to secure the board,
but even so, I still have a generous
54 holes available to use freely.

For standard motif project sizes,
I feel it is an ideal size
that achieves a level of customizability
that can handle anything,
which makes me happy.

If there is anything it cannot achieve,
it would be the need to pin motif projects
to the board at even finer intervals.

The Seria pegboard is
a standard 25mm hole pitch type,
where the distance between the centers of the holes is
approximately 2.5cm,
and the distance between the edges of the holes is approximately 1.9cm.

If you are looking for something finer than that,
I think you can find ones with a 20mm hole pitch
in the 1000-yen range if you look.

Once you get to around 15mm,
it falls outside of standard dimensions,
so I get the impression it becomes expensive.

In that case, I think it is best in terms of cost-performance and satisfaction
to either punch the holes yourself or
consider a ready-made
handmade
blocking board made specifically for knitting.

Storage ideas

By the way,
I found a 100-yen shop item
that is perfect for propping up
the blocking board
I made using the non-traditional method.

It costs 220 yen,
but it is the Daiso easel stand M size.

The thickness of the sandwich of two Seria pegboards and
a 1cm cork trivet
miraculously fit perfectly
into the groove of the Daiso easel,
and I was able to set it up stably.
A pre-arranged harmony.

While blocking motifs,
it also becomes a bit of interior decor,
which lifts my spirits—it's all good.

At a later date, to commemorate the completion of my board,
I think I will knit a frame decoration
all the way around the outer yarn.

0401 Update: Knitting frame completed

I decorated the hand-knitting frames with a botanical atmosphere
that reminds me of the gentle fresh green of spring.

This instantly increases their presence and charm.
Blocking work has also
become fun and glamorous ₍ᐢ. ̫.ᐢ₎♡

Thank you for staying with me
until the end - ̗̀ ( ˶'ᵕ'˶) ̖́-!