“Hana-ikada” (Flower Rafts) Encountered on Kyoto’s Philosopher’s Path, and Traditional Hanami Bento: Memories of the Kitashirakawa Canal and Cherry Blossoms (Former Professor, 384th Day of Retirement)
From Plum to Cherry Blossoms: A Journey Through Kyoto’s “Ikezu” (Cunning) Spring
The other day, I watched the NHK program “Ikezu Kyoto Journey: The Secret Lies in ‘Come, Spring’,” and wrote about the story of the ‘Flying Plum’ at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in my note (4/11). In the program, singer Takanori Nishikawa went on a journey to find spring in Kyoto, guided by the words of experts. The initial theme was “Flowers that announce spring to the capital = Plum,” but the true star of spring is, of course, the cherry blossom. I had just finished writing about the plum blossoms in my note and was taking a breather, when I realized the cherry blossoms in my neighborhood had already begun to fall. I hurriedly wrote this piece. (Please also see the photo below.)
An Outstanding Cherry Blossom Spot: Feeling Kyoto’s Spring Along the Canal
Kyoto has many famous cherry blossom spots. In addition to classics like Arashiyama, Omuro (Ninna-ji Temple), and Kamigamo Shrine, there are also highlights within the city such as Maruyama Park and along the Takase River in Kiyamachi. However, the cherry blossoms along the Kitashirakawa Canal hold special memories for me. They were near the boarding house where I lived as a student, and by watching those blossoms every day, I could truly feel the arrival of spring. (<Postscript>, please also see the photo below.)
＜Postscript＞ The canal refers to the “Lake Biwa Canal,” an artificial waterway that draws water from Lake Biwa to Kyoto. It includes the First Canal, which stretches about 20 km from Otsu, Shiga Prefecture, to Kyoto, the Second Canal that runs parallel through tunnels, and the Canal Branch that diverges from Keage in Sakyo Ward toward the Kitashirakawa area. Since its completion in the Meiji era, it has been an active waterway used for tap water, power generation, agricultural water, and industrial water, and is also an important industrial heritage site symbolizing modernization.
By the way, on the program, Mr. Nishikawa, who is from Shiga Prefecture, laughed and said, “When I get into an argument with someone from Kyoto, I used to say, ‘Shall I shut off the canal?’,” but in reality, the management of the canal is on the Kyoto City side, so it seems the people of Shiga cannot actually shut it off (laughs).
Before the spring season, the water in the canal is temporarily lowered for maintenance, and the water returns in mid-March. In line with this, the boarding areas reopen, and the Jukkoku-bune boats travel back and forth along the cherry-blossom-lined canal, becoming a seasonal tradition of spring.
“Hana-ikada” on the Philosopher’s Path: A Fleeting Pink Carpet
Among them, the cherry blossoms on the “Philosopher’s Path” from Ginkaku-ji to Nanzen-ji are exceptional. Of course, they are wonderful when in full bloom, but when the petals begin to fall and cover the water surface, the “Hana-ikada” (flower raft) looks just like a pink carpet woven by nature (photo below). However, it can only be seen for a very short period. If you are lucky enough to visit during that time, it is truly a miracle (by the way, I used to work as a tutor for a family in this neighborhood, and I enjoyed the privilege of being able to observe the state of the cherry blossoms daily and take a walk at the best time).
About 450 cherry trees bloom on the “Philosopher’s Path.” These cherry blossoms are called “Kansetsu-zakura,” and it is said that they began with 360 saplings donated by the Japanese painter Kansetsu Hashimoto and his wife, Yone. There is an anecdote that Kansetsu, who struggled as a young painter, planted them as a way to give back to the local people.
The Tradition of Cherry Blossoms and Waka Poetry: The Elegance Packed into a Hanami Bento
When it comes to cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto, another pleasure is the “Hanami Bento.” The one introduced on the program was a three-tiered box from the long-established catering restaurant “Tsujitome.” It was beautifully packed with spring ingredients such as sea bream sushi, shrimp shinjo, and kinome-ae (bamboo shoots with Japanese pepper leaf dressing). I have also purchased “Tsujitome” bento at Kyoto Station several times. It was quite expensive, but it was a “masterpiece worthy of the name” that was delicious even when cold. (Please also see the title photo and the photo below: Note 1)
Furthermore, there is a proper etiquette for opening a three-tiered bento box (see photo below); it is formal to lift the top two tiers, place them to the right, and open them starting from the bottom (I was so eager to see what was inside that I opened it from the top lid (sweat)). In Kyoto's long-established shops, there remains a refined custom of bringing your own lacquerware boxes or containers and having them filled only with the bento contents. It is truly an elegant world.
<Postscript> The custom of cherry blossom viewing itself originated in the Heian period when aristocrats admired cherry blossoms and composed waka poetry. It is said that this custom spread to the common people during the Edo period. Also, the method of opening a three-tiered box is based on the etiquette of the Urasenke school of tea ceremony, where 'opening from the bottom tier, which has lower status, expresses a feeling of humility.'
After-meal treat: Japanese sweets that color the spring
And the treat after the meal is Japanese sweets. Since this was not a formal occasion, 'hanami dango' (flower-viewing dumplings) and 'sakura mochi' (cherry blossom rice cakes) that can be bought affordably at a local 'oman-ya-san' (traditional sweet shop) were introduced. Unlike the Kanto style, the mainstream sakura mochi in the Kansai region is the type where mochi made from domyoji-ko (coarsely ground glutinous rice) is wrapped in a cherry leaf, with sweet smooth red bean paste inside. The grainy texture and the chewy bite create the atmosphere of spring.
Near my home in Osaka, the cherry blossoms at the Expo '70 Commemorative Park (<Postscript>) are beautiful, but I was too busy this year to go cherry blossom viewing. I decided to settle for the view of the cherry blossoms seen from the train window or the monorail this year. Well then, until next time.
<Postscript> The venue of the previous Osaka Expo has become a large forest over the years. My wife, who has the sight of the vast, reddish-brown vacant lot after the Expo burned into her memory, says with deep emotion, 'No wonder we are getting old.'
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Note 1: From the NHK program 'An "Ikezu" (Sly/Witty) Kyoto Journey: Spring is Coming, There's a Secret'