The Colors of the Aoi Matsuri as Seen in Heian Period Diaries

Hello.
How are you spending this fragrant, breezy month of May?
Today, I would like to explore the charm of the Aoi Matsuri, a beautiful festival that colors the early summer in Kyoto, using a passage from a diary written over a thousand years ago as a guide.
For a little while, let us step together into the elegant world of the Heian period...

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The Aoi Matsuri of a Thousand Years Ago, Recorded in a Diary

Now, have you ever seen the Aoi Matsuri? If not, what kind of image do you have of it?
Known as one of Kyoto's three major festivals, it is a very elegant and historic event held every year on May 15th.
In fact, about a thousand years ago, a Heian period aristocrat named Fujiwara no Sanesuke wrote about this festival in his diary, the Shōyūki.
It was the eighth year of the Kankō era, 1011 AD. The date was the 28th day of the fourth month in the lunar calendar, which corresponds to around May 15th in the modern calendar—exactly when the Aoi Matsuri is held.
The diary reads as follows:

"Today is the Kamo Festival. The Imperial messenger arrives wearing layered robes. As the Saiin's procession crosses the Kamo River, the green leaves rustle in the wind, and the crimson mo skirt glitters in the sun."

In modern language, it goes something like this.

"Today is the Kamo Festival (what we now call the Aoi Matsuri). The Imperial messenger, acting on behalf of the Emperor, attended wearing beautiful layered robes. As the procession of the Saiin crossed the Kamo River, the green leaves rustled in the wind, and the crimson mo (skirt) shimmered in the sunlight."

What do you think?
It is only a short passage, but doesn't the scene unfold right before your eyes?

"Kamo Festival" is the old name for the Aoi Matsuri. For the people of the Heian period, this festival was a vital event to pray for the peace of the nation and a bountiful harvest. And Fujiwara no Sanesuke, who wrote this diary, was a figure at the center of the politics of the time. The fact that he specifically took the time to record the scene of this day suggests it must have been a beautiful sight that left a lasting impression on him.
This passage is a wonderful record that invites us to Kyoto a thousand years ago and lets us feel the very breath of the people of that time.

Experiencing Heian Aesthetics with the Five Senses

Let's take a closer look at the description of the Aoi Matsuri in Fujiwara no Sanesuke's diary.
First, "the Imperial messenger arrives wearing layered robes".

The Imperial messenger, that is, the Emperor's envoy, attended in "layered robes."
When we think of Heian period aristocratic attire, the jūnihitoe (twelve-layered robe) is famous, but it was also formal attire for men to wear many layers of garments.
The color combinations, known as "kasane no irome," reflected a delicate aesthetic sense tailored to the season and the occasion. The messenger's robes must have been breathtakingly beautiful.

Next, "the procession of the Saiin". The Saiin was an unmarried Imperial princess chosen to serve at the Kamo Shrine. As a sacred figure, she played a very important role in the festival. The sight of the Saiin's procession crossing the clear Kamo River... what a picturesque scene.

And the most impressive part is...
"the green leaves rustle in the wind, and the crimson mo skirt glitters in the sun".
Imagine it. A refreshing early summer breeze is blowing, and the youthful green leaves by the river are rustling. Amidst this, the crimson mo (the back part of the jūnihitoe that trails long from the waist) worn by the Saiin is glittering in the sunlight.
This "crimson mo." In the Heian period, this red color held special significance as a symbol of vitality and nobility. And since it says it "glitters in the sun," it must have been high-quality silk. The beauty of silk shining in the light must have been exceptional.
The green of the fresh "green leaves" and the red of the Saiin's "crimson mo." That vivid contrast. And the sound of the wind, the rustling of the trees, the sparkle of the sunlight...
Fujiwara no Sanesuke's diary conveys not just colors and light, but even sound to us. The people of the Heian period perceived the beauty of rituals and the beauty of nature with all five senses in this way.

Also, the reason this festival is called the "Aoi Matsuri" (Hollyhock Festival) is that the people participating in the procession and the ox-drawn carriages are decorated with aoi (hollyhock) leaves. These leaves are said to embody the meaning of "the day to meet the gods," and were considered sacred plants.
It was truly a moment where the beauty of man-made costumes and the beauty of nature perfectly merged. That was the appearance of the Aoi Matsuri a thousand years ago.

The Spirit of the Aoi Matsuri Living in the Present

Well, more than a thousand years have passed since Fujiwara no Sanesuke wrote in his diary. However, the Aoi Matsuri is still carried on today as an important event that colors the early summer in Kyoto.
Of course, the Saiin system no longer exists, but today, a "Saiōdai" (a substitute for the Saiin) chosen from ordinary women wears a gorgeous jūnihitoe to fulfill that role. The sight of people dressed in the same elegant costumes of the time parading through the streets of the capital is truly a Heian picture scroll come to life. Elements that Sanesuke would have seen—the colorful costumes, the ox-drawn carriages, and the aoi leaf decorations—are still carefully preserved.
We are able to see the same sights that people saw a thousand years ago. Don't you think that is a wonderful thing?

What is Fujiwara no Sanesuke's diary telling us? I don't think it is merely a record of an old event.
It speaks to the rich sensibilities of the Heian people: turning their hearts to the beauty of nature, valuing rituals, and admiring the harmonious beauty born from them. And the spirit of wanting to pass on such beautiful and important things to the next generation.
When we encounter the Aoi Matsuri, we feel the weight of history and the depth of culture, along with a universal beauty that touches people's hearts across the ages. Perhaps it is connected somewhere to the emotion Fujiwara no Sanesuke felt on that day a thousand years ago by the banks of the Kamo River.
If you have the chance, please visit the Aoi Matsuri yourself. And while you listen to the sound of the green leaves rustling in the wind and are captivated by the colors of the costumes shining in the sunlight, why not let your thoughts wander to the elegance of the Heian period that has transcended a thousand years?

Today, I talked about the charm of the Aoi Matsuri using Fujiwara no Sanesuke's diary as a guide.